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Wiring Harness Kit

This kit includes all the interconnect wiring needed to complete the installation. All wires are "tinned" marine grade "boat cable" for dependability in harsh environments as well as color coded for ease of connection.
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Installation Tools Checklist
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Pre-Install Considerations
Be sure to make provisions during dock construction for the gaps created between power supply boxes and finished dock. When installing a No Profile Mirage Lift, it may be necessary to install a bridge plate to fill the gap when a platform is installed perpendicular to the main dock. ( Figure B) The bow end of the CHU does not butt up against the main dock (see arrows). This creates a gap that needs to be filled with a bridge plate. The exact size of the bridge can not be determined until the CHU’S are in place and a measurement is taken.
Installation Procedures
The WMD lifts, by virtue of the “No-Profile” feature; require closer tolerances (port to starboard) than do conventional lifts. Because of the Cable Handling Unit’s (CHU) close proximity to the finished deck surface, (Figure 1) any misalignment, even an inch, can be quite obvious. THIS FACTOR SHOULD NOT INTIMIDATE THE MARINE CONTRACTOR. The “No Profile” lift is actually quite easy to install. Typical pile placement error is allowed and can be compensated for. Piles should be placed as vertical as possible. For ease of explanation, the No Profile Mirage Lift will be used in the installation.
Refer to Piling Placement Diagram (Fig 2)
Piling placement (bow to stern) tolerances are wider and an error of + / - 3 inches can be overcome during the installation process. It is possible to overcome misalignment greater than 5" by loosening the earth around the piling to adjust with the jetting pump and then bracing with ground tackle to hold for a short period while the earth settles back around the piling and “trains” the piling into a new position. This technique can rectify gross misalignment in as little as 20 minutes depending on the bottom make-up. This process has been used with success to re-orientate pilings outside the pile placement tolerances set in the pile placement diagram. (Refer to Fig. 3 and 4) The depth at which the piles are set is the responsibility of the contractor. Pilings should be driven to 10 ton load bearing capacity. These guidelines vary geographically and are
usually specified in the permitting documents. Note: Prior to cutting the pile tops to length check again for pile placement error. Also check for plumb.
Topping Procedure
After the pile placement has been verified, it is necessary to cut the piles to length. ( Fig 5) For “flush deck” applications, the cut piling top will be 6” below the “finished” surface of the existing deck adjacent to the CHU. If the CHU is to be at a height greater than that of the adjacent dock decking, the pilings should be cut to 6” below the desired height of the CHU cover plates. Again, the “No-Profile” design CHU is mounted in close proximity to the dock decking, care must be taken when cutting piling tops.
NOTE: Wood piling diameters are “nominal”. Pilings with diameters greater than 12 3/8 will require shaping (Fig 6)
Once the pilings are “topped”, verify the tops (pile to pile) are level. Shims can be used if necessary provided they are of a material that will last as long as the piling itself. A marine grade plywood works well for this. Piling tops are to be covered with a moisture-proof barrier sheet (shower pan liner from Home Depot) that prevents the pilings from direct contact with the aluminum.(Fig 7) Six straps are utilized per CHU to secure assembly to pilings.

Lower the CHU into place. (Fig 8) Ensure that the CHU is installed with the power supply bin is forward at the “bow end” prior to placing.
The straps should fall within the outside center of each piling. If not, using sledge hammer or come-along (Fig 9) convince the piling into position.
NOTE: Because error can exist at all pile locations, take a measurement from the dock to the motor end of the CHU.
NOTE: Prior to making any attachments to pilings, ensure that pulleys clear pilings #3 and #4 by 1.5 inches or more. These pulleys have the least clearance from the piling so tolerance for error is less. (Fig. 10)
Using the existing hole in the tie down strap, (Fig 12) carefully drill from the outboard side of the piling to the inboard side. (An observer is helpful to keep the bore true)


Install bolt and spacers from the inboard side towards the strap. (Fig. 13 & 14) With all pilings drill all the way through and attach with all-thread. Use the supplied washers and anti-seize. Use bolts provided to attach.
NOTE: Pilings less than 12” require a spacer be used to keep bracket from “bending” towards piling as attachment bolt nut is tightened. Utilize this procedure for the remaining five attachment straps. Prepare to install platform crossmembers. Lag bolts are not to be substituted for through bolts!

Cross-Member Installation
The “No-Profile” ™ lift can be completely assembled prior to the electrical installation. The CHU is shipped with approximately 12” of cable extending from each cable exit port. (Fig 15) There are two size cross-members. One beam of the three (platform lift) has tabs that are longer
than the others. The beams are installed so that the tabs are towards the water, (Fig 16) identify the longer member and install it first at the “stern end of the lift. This is done by inserting the cable thimble between the tabs and installing the 5/8” hex head bolt. Repeat this process for the remaining 5 lifting points. NOTE: All cross –member wire attachment bolts should be inserted so that the head of the bolt is towards the piling it is closest to. Attach the nut and tighten accordingly.
NOTE: Prior to making any bolt/nut connection, it is required that a “marine-grade” anti-seize lubricant be used. This will prevent “galling” from occurring while tightening. (Fig. 17)
Joist Installation
Joists are placed at right angles to the cross-members. NOTE: Depending on pile placement accuracy, the cross-members may not be perfectly parallel
with each other. (Fig 18) This can be overlooked in most cases, however; it is important that the deck joists number 1 and 8 (outboard, each side port/starboard) be parallel with the CHU. (There is more flexibility in joists 2 through 7) Make sure the shorter joists are in the center. These are going to be the center joists that provide the stern cutout. Position the joists over the cross members. Mark the joists and drill clearance holes for 5/16” Ø bolt. Transfer these holes on to the cross-members. Drill cross-members with same 5/16 Ø clearance. Attach all of the joists at this time with the supplied hardware: flat washer on top with hex head; flat split and nut on bottom.
To give stability to the cross-members, install joist 1 and 8 first. Attach joists using S/S hardware provided. Drilling holes through joist flange and cross-member I-beam flange is necessary. (Fig 20) Drill 3/8" (maximum) to accommodate the 5/16" bolts. Install bolt heads “up”, nuts “down”. (See photo)

Bunk Install Procedure
After the stringers are in place, locate the adjustable bunk system and guide posts. The 4”x6” I Beam will attach directly to the cross-members. Mark your holes on the cross members and drill for 3/8 bolts. Make sure the bunks are situated between the correct stringers. (SEE DIAGRAM)
There are two different lengths of the up right portion of bunk system. Be sure to put TALLER BUNK at the MIDSHIP and the SHORTER BUNK at the AFT CROSS MEMBER. This will give vessel its correct angle upon lifting and for drainage.

This is the time to attach guide posts. Each guide post mount is attached to cross member using the clips provided. Be sure to use Anti-seize on all hardware connections.

Platform Installation
Start at the forward end of where the platform will terminate. Attach the first length of Cross Timbers decking hanging over the joists slightly. Go to the back end and attach a board. Run a string the entire length for a reference point for the remaining boards. Install remaining boards with supplied EZ Fasteners. If necessary, use skill saw to cut the ends of the deck boards to make them parallel with the CHU.

